Hanoi Nights

Everyone seems to be out, from a tiny wizened old lady I saw who must have been at least 85 years old I think if not older to loads of little children, too.

This paints a picture of my first night in Hanoi. Pictures can’t convey how busy this place is though. Traffic comes flying round corners at you every which way, honking wildly. Hundreds of motorbikes, with 2, 3 or even 4 people crammed onto them weave around pedestrians and cars like shuttles on a loom. And there are loads of cars too, all merrily honking away. The traffic lights must be purely for decoration, I think. No one pays attention to them.

At one point, I was stuck trying to cross a really not very wide road along with a young British couple. All three of us were being typically apologetic and cautious, until we all simultaneously realised it was getting us nowhere, so we just stepped out into the traffic hoping it would stop for us. This seems to be the way it’s done here. The young lady grinned and giggled at me as we made it across, and I saluted them saying, “Teamwork!” Travelling is full of these momentary little challenges. Every time I manage to step up to one, it feels like a massive achievement! It’s lovely to experience moments of camaraderie with fellow travellers, too.

The pavements everywhere are ramshackle and broken, or made up of tiles slippery with rain. Everywhere, there are people sitting on tiny children’s plastic chairs outside cafés, homes and market stalls, eating dinner with chopsticks. Between all those people and the motorbikes stacked along the pavement, there’s really nowhere to walk. Just progressing through the streets seems to involve taking your life in your own hands!

Once I reached the night market it was a relief as they’d cordoned off some of the road, to stop the traffic. But even then sometimes an enterprising motorcyclist would appear from a side street and come hurtling through! The market was incredibly long and still going strong at 10pm in spite of the rain. A lot of the shops were still open too. I would’ve taken photos of the market but I thought I’d probably either get run over or slip or trip up or something!

At one point I noticed this temple peeking out opposite a load of market stalls:

I bought myself a baked sweet potato piping hot from one of the stools. Filling comfort food in this strange place that’s quite unlike any place I’ve ever been before.

Then I wandered back to the hotel via a different route that was less frantic and had wider pavements, and to my delight, stumbled across this series of street art on the arches under what I think must be a city centre railway or tram line:

One last traveller’s triumph I had this evening was getting from the airport to the hotel. The hotel had sent me an email offering to book me a transfer for $18USD. I managed to walk onto an express city centre shuttle bus and pay the equivalent of $1.50 instead. Well, not quite that little as I had to change some money at the airport as none of the cash points were working, so they gave me a less good exchange rate. So let’s call it $1.80. To give you an idea, that was 35000 Vietnamese Dong for a 45 minute journey.

Flying to Hanoi

Baggage ach! So much baggage! 😕

My flight was delayed by an hour. I must have decided to make my way to the boarding gate just as they marked it open. I’m not sure how this happened but I was the first one on the plane for the first time in my life!

I was in a kind of dazed stupor I’m going to call the “Changi airport chill out factor” due to the gentle jazz, smooth, quiet efficiency, prevalent greenery, lovely air conditioning and comfortable furnishings of Singapore’s extraordinary airport. My inexperience with domestic flights shows. I marvel at the ease and simplicity of it all. (Although Singapore is a different country from Vietnam, this 3 hour flight definitely has the laid back feel of a domestic one).

Despite Shiv’s excellent help with reducing my baggage contents, it was still over 2kg more than it should’ve been (9kg instead of 7kg), so I asked the check in desk lady “What can I do?” Another moment of vulnerability faced, owned and acted upon. (It’s all good practice for me!) The cost of putting my bag in the hold was only £20. I wished I’d just booked it in in the first place.

I have one more flight on this part of my trip but my attempts to navigate the booking systems of Air Asia to change my baggage allowance have been futile. I’ll just hope I can pay at the airport again as I did this time.

This is one of the things I’ll not miss about flying. Though once my backpack was checked in I did feel remarkably free and easy with just my shoulder bag. This was how I’d imagined it would be!

Baggage. We carry so much of it these days. One is not immune from accumulating ridiculous amounts of material stuff just because one is a vicar. Being conscious of the huge gaping vortex of consumerism waiting to suck us all in and spit us out is a good first step to living more simply, but it’s not enough. I think the only thing to do is to really try to practise not accruing stuff. I have to say, although I still brought too much stuff, it has been quite releasing to live with fewer clothes and possessions around me.

I like this cartoon by Michael Leunig that we have on our loo wall at home:

I notice this flight is far from full. They’ve probably got room for 50 bags the size of mine in the lockers and another 50 in the seats. (I’m wondering whether there’s enough people on board to stop us from flying off into the ether! Maybe other people voted with their feet when the flight was delayed by an hour? Or maybe this is normal for VietJet? Of which, worryingly, Shiv and Jamie had never heard. I think I might be travelling on the Vietnamese equivalent of Aeroflot!) But anyway, that’s beside the point. Just because you can fit so much stuff into your bag doesn’t mean you need to cram it in to the hilt. And yet we do, don’t we? Hmmm.

Thoughts about home

I drafted this post while I was on my way from Melbourne, Australia to Singapore.

I am about two thirds of the way through my three month odyssey. One of the topics I have been thinking about a lot for a long time is “home”. My reflections have been borne out of many experiences, some of which I’d like to share, as I have a hunch that they’re important, somehow. I guessed that travelling literally so far away from home for so long could only enrich my reflections, and so far it really has.

In this post I’ll simply list some of the things I’m missing about home. Perhaps that will help provide a glimpse into what home could mean.

Things I’m missing:

The comfort of my own bed

Not having to keep packing all my stuff up into a suitcase

Not having to keep checking I’ve got travel documents to hand

The days getting shorter for winter (my body is really missing that at the moment somehow. At St Kilda’s beach, which is a beautiful spot in Melbourne, I caught myself thinking, “How come the sun hasn’t set more than that yet?” even though I didn’t want the day to end, it had been so beautiful.)

The crisp cold sunny blue sky autumn days Sheffield does so well

The people – my housemates, friends, normal phone calls to family (though in fact I’ve had more communication with some people through photos and messages, WhatsApp and this blog than usual, it’s not the same)

Our cat Xena (Warrior Princess) who’s probably still scared of the cat flap (mental note: must ask for a progress report on that!), and must surely need some strokey time from Aunt Ali by now

Knowing where stuff is and how to go about getting what I need or how to get from one place to another without looking it up online or having to ask somebody

The rhythm of our household, including times of praying together, our quiet days (although I’m managing to build in some lovely quiet times and days or half days here and there), eating together and with other friends, our household’s lovely long brunches

The rhythm of other groups I am a part of – our simple silences, meals, reflections, body prayers (I’ve done a few while I’ve been away, but here’s a mental note to do more) and local companionship with people in Contemplative Fire

Cooking, and knowing what’s in the food I’m eating

Singing in the choirs I belong to

The Peak District/English countryside and coasts

…I’m sure there’s more, but that’s a taster anyway.

In the meantime, things I’m not missing:

The news about Brexit (pretty glad to escape this to be honest, hoping if there’s anything requiring a vote that I’ll be back in time for it)

Having to pick up my medication

My usual pattern of building up huge amounts of laundry then having a blitz. (Turns out I quite like only having so many clothes and doing one load of washing more regularly rather than two loads less regularly. I’ve been fortunate that so far washing facilities have been great everywhere.)

Arriving in Singapore

I’m told that Singapore has a similar sized population to New Zealand. Which seems ok until you realise that they all live on an area roughly the size of Lake Taupo. Don’t get me wrong; Taupo is big, for a lake. But for a country…? Well, I’ll find out how all that works soon enough no doubt.

Here’s some views from the Southern Ridges 10km walk (we set off at 7:45am to get this in before the humidity became unbearable):

Anyway, I have just arrived here and am having a couple of days to catch up with myself and make bookings to organise my journey across SE Asia, which begins tomorrow! My wonderful hosts Shiv and Jamie and their children have made me feel so welcome already, it’s tempting to not leave!! But the plan is to leave tomorrow and backpack round some of Vietnam and Malaysia, then return here to spend my last week exploring Singapore.

I’m hoping I can keep up with the blogging as I go on this leg of the journey. Hmmm we shall see about that!

Melbourne, Australia

I will restrict myself to mainly photos to tell the story of my short stay in Melbourne, to help catch up with myself.

Big thanks to Carol, my Aussie friend Brenda’s friend for putting me up at her house, and also to my friend Sally for our very heartening catch up day. Reflections from all this will weave their way into my posts as I continue.

Day 1 Melbourne City Centre: Eureka Skydeck & hop on hop off tram circuit

I didn’t do this 👆🏼 or indeed this👇🏼I am not a glutton for punishment!

Back to Auckland

We met up with Ken and Les in Wellington had some of Tash’s mum’s delicious scones (Stu decided to do scientific testing of the Great Scone Debate re the order of jam and cream, and came to the *wrong* conclusion, risking life and limb!), and a last meal out altogether also with Tash’s folks, I had some last strokey time with King Fred the cat and the next morning Ken and Les and I drove north back up to Auckland.

On the drive back we stopped at Lake Taupo again and this time I went for a swim in it. The largest lake. It had to be done!

Here are some general observations about NZ that I haven’t fitted in anywhere else:

The Rugby World Cup was on while I was there. This is the national sport, really, and is called “footie” (as opposed to “soccer”, which means football in English terms). Everyone loves the All Blacks! They feature in the current Air New Zealand flight safety video. Apparently currently, the coaches for the footie teams from Japan, Ireland, Wales (and Scotland) as well as New Zealand are all kiwis. England beat the All Blacks just after I’d left to fly to Melbourne. Perhaps it’s better I wasn’t still around!! I felt quite sad about it really though.

Apparently you don’t have to pay at all for local phone calls here, so people often ring and chat more often and for longer, fostering a sense of community, at least among the pre-social media generation.

There are concierges at many of the petrol pumps to help you, and packers in most supermarkets as well as the checkout staff. Nobody asks whether you want help with your packing, they just do it, all the while chatting away with you about the footie, the weather, whatever.

I have the general impression that most people talk to you and pass the time of day still, often saying not only, “Hi” but also “How are you?” And waiting for and expecting a response, and listening to it. But it’s not that people interfere. If you don’t particularly want to talk, that’s all ok too. It’s really a very hospitable place.

Goodbye New Zealand. I hope we meet again before too long 💕🙏

Flying back to Wellington

My last view of the South Island included more stunning snow capped mountains apparently defying gravity, floating in between the clouds. Then, just as I was thinking that was the last of the jaw dropping views of the South Island, stunning views of the snow topped mountains of Kaikoura (on the north east coast of the South Island) loomed large right by my window. Wow. I mean, wow.

Goodbye, South Island. You have been awesome.